About Himlung Himal

On September 5 of 1992 , most members of team arrived Kathmandu. We arranged a permission for our group to scale Himlung Himal from its west side in autumn season. The main group left Kathmandu on 12th for the approach march along Marsyangdi river. When we approached to Manang District, the path from Kodo to Meta was unable to go through since Sama of bridges over Nar Khola had fallen . Consequently, we had to access upper Nar Khola across Kang -La from Ngawal to Nar.

Passing by two interesting Tibetan villages of Nar and Phu . Our group established Base Camp and the hight of 8850 meters on September 25 . It was instead at the upper border of one of pastures belonged to Phu (see map on page 38) . Yaks, goats, sheep, herdsmen, and Lamas of Tashi Gompa of Phu visited us everyday, while we stayed there.

From September 26 the climbers started finding routes selecting advanced camps upwards . On the first day, one of two members made reconnaissance up to the height of 5620 meters and determined the site of camp 1. The route from base camp was on a moraine up to 5230 meters where a deposit camp was established later. From there , the route was taken on a stable glacier covered with snow . We sat up camp 1 at the height of 5450 meters on the glacier on September 27. The made a detour through a small ice fall just above a camp 1 and reached an upper snow plateau. Then we took route on a snow slope to the northwest ridge . They exed ropes for 209 meters at the steep slope for the converieced of descent . Meanwhile some porters carried luggage up to the deposit and camp 1. A part of member, left base camp on September 29, for their Trekking journey to Pokhara via Thorung la kali Gandaki.

On October 1, 3 members left base camp and see up camp 2 as 6096 meters on the northwest ridge . The route around camp 2 was significantly wide and gentle slope covered with deep snow .They went along the snow ride without any difficulty on the next day and set up camp 3 at 6250 meters as the fact of the slope to the summit. They left camp 3 at 6:00 am on October 3 and climbed on snow slope to the summit . One Nepali sirdar and member reached the summit at 10:45 am . They descended to base camp on the same day. A climber felt so chilly at his shoes on his way up to the summit because it blew very cold wind on that morning.

October 4 and stayed that night at camp 3. Whereas they tried to make assent on the next day, they had to stay at Camp 3 due to bad weather. A member descended alone to Base camp because of height altitude sickness on that day. The rest of the party climbed up to the summit on October 5. They arrived at summit at 12:15 am and descended to camp 2. The final trial for the summit was made the on October 7 by a climber and Nepali Sherpa sardar. Although they see out camp 3 on that morning, eventually they had to quit up ascending because the same member had not acclimatized wed and feet weary to go forward. On October 7, members and Sherpas on higher camps carried all gear and load down to base camp. We evacuated base camp on October 9 and moved down to a temporary residence of Phu named Pangari Kharka . We stayed their waiting for porters for two days and started return rearching on October 12. Since the fallen bridge between Meta and Kodo were not repaired yet at that time, we make some connection for the reconstruction project had took the same route as forward journey crossing Kang -La. Finally we ret

Suggested Season : Early September to Early October
Total duration : 39 Days